Nong Khai: what to do & tips | Thailand Explorer

Why Nong Khai? A laid-back Mekong riverside town facing Laos, with a surreal sculpture park, sunset promenade and easy cycling along the river.

Nong Khai is a small, easy-going town on the banks of the Mekong, looking straight across the water to Laos. It is famous for the bizarre sculpture garden of Sala Kaew Ku, a riverside promenade made for sunset strolls and a gentle pace that makes many travellers stay longer than planned. It suits slow travellers, cyclists and anyone crossing the Friendship Bridge to Vientiane.

One night is enough to see the highlights on the way to or from Laos, but two or three nights let you cycle the riverside villages, take a sunset cruise and drive west along the Mekong to Sangkhom and its viewpoints.

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What to do in Nong Khai?

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CultureSala Kaew KuSurreal park of giant concrete Buddhas, nagas and Hindu deities.
QuietMekong riverside promenadeStroll or cycle the riverfront and watch the sun set over Laos.
ShoppingTha Sadet MarketLong riverside market selling Lao, Vietnamese and Chinese goods and snacks.
CultureWat Pho ChaiRevered temple housing the gold Luang Pho Phra Sai Buddha image.
CulturePhra That Nong KhaiAncient chedi slowly sinking into the Mekong, visible in the dry season.
AdventureCycling the Mekong villagesFlat riverside lanes through villages, temples and vegetable gardens.
QuietMekong sunset boat cruiseDrift along the border river as Laos lights up across the water.
CultureThai-Lao Friendship BridgeThe first bridge over the lower Mekong, gateway to Vientiane.
AuthenticDay trip to VientianeCross into the Lao capital for its temples, cafes and riverside markets.
NatureWat Pha Tak Suea skywalkGlass walkway high above the Mekong valley in Sangkhom district.
NatureThan Thong WaterfallRocky cascades beside the Mekong road near Sangkhom.
CultureNaga Fireballs festivalMysterious glowing balls rise from the Mekong at the end of Buddhist Lent.
FoodMekong river fish & Vietnamese snacksTry grilled pla and naem nueang pork rolls at riverside restaurants.
AuthenticWat Hin Mak PengPeaceful forest monastery on rocky bluffs above the river.

Getting there & around

The nearest airport is Udon Thani, about 55 km south, with frequent flights from Bangkok and shared vans or taxis to Nong Khai taking around 1 hour. The railway line from Bangkok ends here, and the overnight sleeper takes roughly 10-11 hours; buses take around 9-10 hours. The Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge is just outside town, and Vientiane lies about 25 km beyond it. Nong Khai itself is flat and compact: walk, hire a bicycle or use tuk-tuks, and rent a scooter or car for trips along the river.

Sala Kaew Ku & the temples

The unmissable sight is Sala Kaew Ku, a sculpture park created by the mystic Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat, filled with towering concrete Buddhas, many-headed nagas and Hindu gods. It is a few kilometres east of the centre and easy to reach by bicycle. In town, Wat Pho Chai houses Luang Pho Phra Sai, one of the most venerated Buddha images in the northeast, and in the dry season you can see Phra That Nong Khai, an old chedi that collapsed into the Mekong and now emerges when the water drops.

Along the Mekong

The riverside promenade and the long covered Tha Sadet Market are the town's social heart, especially at sunset when locals gather to eat and exercise. Evening boat cruises float along the border, and flat lanes make cycling to nearby villages a pleasure. For a longer excursion, drive west along the river road to Sangkhom, where Wat Pha Tak Suea has a glass skywalk over the Mekong valley and Than Thong Waterfall tumbles over rocks beside the road. On the way, stop at the forest monastery of Wat Hin Mak Peng on its rocky bluffs above the river.

Food & the evening

Nong Khai's food mixes Isaan, Lao and Vietnamese influences. Look for grilled Mekong river fish, spicy Isaan salads and naem nueang, Vietnamese-style grilled pork rolled in rice paper with herbs, a local speciality. Riverside restaurants with terraces over the water are perfect at sunset, and a handful of relaxed bars along the promenade cater to travellers. Evenings are unhurried - dinner by the river, a walk along the lit-up promenade and an early start for a bike ride.

When to go

The cool season from November to February is ideal for cycling and riverside walks, and the dry months reveal Phra That Nong Khai in the river. March to May is very hot. In October, at the end of Buddhist Lent, huge crowds gather along the river, especially in Phon Phisai district, to watch the Naga Fireballs rise from the Mekong, so book well ahead. If you plan to visit Laos, check visa rules before you go: many nationalities can get a visa on arrival at the bridge.