
A comfortable island with its own airport: palm-fringed beaches, wellness resorts, the Big Buddha and waterfalls inland.
Why Koh Samui? A comfortable island with its own airport: palm-fringed beaches, wellness resorts, the Big Buddha and waterfalls inland.
Over in the Gulf of Thailand, Koh Samui is the comfortable, grown-up island - its own airport, palm-lined beaches, polished resorts and spa retreats, plus a jungly interior of waterfalls, coconut plantations and viewpoints. Thailand's second-largest island after Phuket, it is more developed than its neighbours Koh Phangan and Koh Tao, but well set up for anyone who wants ease, good food and a touch of luxury.
Two to four nights suits the beach-spa-and-day-trip rhythm: a day or two on the sand, a loop of the island's temples and waterfalls, and a boat trip to the stunning Ang Thong Marine Park. Stay longer if you are here for a wellness retreat or plan to island-hop onwards.
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The big advantage is Samui International Airport, served mainly by Bangkok Airways with direct flights from Bangkok (about 1 hour 10 minutes) and some regional cities; fares can be high. Budget travellers fly or take the train to Surat Thani and use a joint bus-and-ferry ticket via Donsak pier, around 4-5 hours in total. On the island a 50 km ring road circles the coast; use Grab, songthaews (agree the fare first, as they overcharge) or rent a scooter or car. Ferries run to Koh Phangan (30-60 minutes) and Koh Tao (1.5-2 hours) from Nathon, Maenam, Bangrak and Bophut piers.
Chaweng is the main event - the longest, liveliest beach with the most hotels, bars and shopping. Lamai just south is a slightly calmer alternative with good sand and a smaller centre. For quiet and romance, the north and west coasts hold boutique and luxury resorts: Bophut with its charming Fisherman's Village, family-friendly Maenam, secluded Choeng Mon and the sunset-facing bays around Lipa Noi and Taling Ngam. The far south stays rural and quiet. Samui does high-end well, so it is a good place to splurge on a pool villa, but decent mid-range hotels are easy to find too.
Beyond the beach, visit the golden Big Buddha (Wat Phra Yai) on its islet in the northeast and the graceful Wat Plai Laem next door, with its 18-armed Guanyin statue on the water. Inland, the Na Muang waterfalls have pools for a swim, while Hin Lad is a shady jungle walk from the ring road. Up in the hills, the Secret Buddha Garden hides mossy statues among the trees, best reached by 4x4. Photograph the oddly famous Hin Ta and Hin Yai 'grandfather and grandmother' rocks near Lamai. Dress modestly at temples, covering shoulders and knees.
The unmissable day trip is Ang Thong Marine Park - 42 limestone islands reached by boat in around 1.5 hours. Tours usually include kayaking, snorkelling, a steep climb to a viewpoint on Koh Wua Talab and a walk to the emerald saltwater lake inside Koh Mae Ko; a park fee applies. Snorkelling trips also head to Koh Tao and Koh Nang Yuan, and ferries make Koh Phangan an easy excursion. Avoid any tour offering elephant rides or animal shows, and choose ethical sanctuaries or nature trips instead.
Samui is a wellness hub - day spas, Thai massage, yoga and full detox resorts abound. Eat at Fisherman's Village in Bophut, lovely for an evening stroll and its Friday walking street, and at the seafood spots along Chaweng and Lamai; Lamai also has a Sunday market. Fine dining with a sea view is a Samui speciality, but roadside stalls still serve excellent khao man gai and som tam. Nightlife concentrates in Chaweng - beach clubs, bars and the odd cabaret - lively but tamer than Phangan's full-moon madness next door.
Samui follows the Gulf weather pattern, which differs from the Andaman coast. The driest, sunniest months are usually February to April, and June to August is also good, making Samui a popular choice when Phuket and Krabi are rainy. The main wet season runs from October to December, with November the rainiest month and rougher seas that can disrupt ferries; Ang Thong Marine Park may close for part of that period. Christmas, New Year and July-August are busy, so book flights and villas early.
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All hotels in Koh Samui →2-4 nights for the beach, spa and day trips to the Ang Thong archipelago.
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