Chumphon

Why Chumphon? The laid-back gateway to Koh Tao, with uncrowded Gulf beaches, a big local night market and some of Thailand's best robusta coffee.

Chumphon is where southern Thailand begins: a busy but friendly provincial town on the Gulf coast, best known as the main jumping-off point for ferries to Koh Tao. Most travellers only see it at dawn on the way to the pier, yet the surrounding coast has long, quiet beaches, fresh seafood at local prices and a strong Thai-holiday atmosphere with very few foreign tourists. It suits road trippers, divers heading to Koh Tao and anyone who wants a break on the long journey south.

One or two nights is enough. Sleep near the beach at Thung Wua Laen, eat at the night market or a seafront restaurant, and catch the morning boat refreshed rather than straight off a night bus.

What to do in Chumphon?

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• BeachHat Thung Wua LaenLong, gently curving beach north of town with seafood restaurants.
• BeachHat Sai RiPine-lined beach with a shrine to the father of the Thai navy.
• CulturePrince Chumphon ShrineMuch-visited memorial to Admiral Prince Abhakara at Sai Ri.
• CultureHTMS Chumphon shipDecommissioned navy vessel displayed on land near Sai Ri beach.
• NatureKhao Matsee ViewpointHilltop sunrise spot looking over the bays and offshore islands.
• SnorkelingMu Ko Chumphon National ParkBoat trips to offshore islands with coral and clear water.
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• DivingKoh Tao day or overnight tripThailand's diving capital lies about 1.5-2 hours offshore by catamaran.
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• FoodChumphon night marketBusy evening market in town with southern curries and grilled seafood.
• FoodSeafood at Thung Wua LaenBeachfront restaurants serving squid, crab and fish at local prices.
• CoffeeChumphon robusta coffeeTaste local beans from the province that grows much of Thailand's robusta.
• AuthenticPak Nam Chumphon fishing portColourful fishing boats and a real working harbour at the river mouth.
• FoodKluai leb mue nang bananasChumphon's famous small, sweet 'lady finger' bananas, sold everywhere.
• CultureWat Phra That SawiHistoric temple with an old whitewashed chedi in Sawi district.
• QuietSunrise on the GulfQuiet east-facing beaches made for early walks and empty sand.

Getting there & around

Chumphon Airport has flights from Bangkok Don Mueang of about an hour, and the airport lies roughly 30-45 minutes' drive from town. Trains from Bangkok take around 7-9 hours, including convenient overnight sleepers, and buses about 7-8 hours. Ferries to Koh Tao leave from piers around 20-30 minutes outside town, with catamarans taking about 1.5-2 hours and slower boats longer; combination tickets include the transfer. Locally, use songthaews or taxis, or rent a scooter to reach the beaches and viewpoints at your own pace.

Beaches & where to stay

The favourite base is Hat Thung Wua Laen, a long, gently curving beach roughly 15-20 kilometres north of town, lined with low-key resorts, guesthouses and seafood restaurants. South of town, Hat Sai Ri has shady pine trees, fishing boats and a relaxed local feel. Stay in town if you want easy access to the station, buses and the night market; stay on the beach if you want to relax. Either way, most hotels can arrange early transfers to the Koh Tao ferries.

Sights & islands

At Sai Ri, the Prince Chumphon Shrine honours Admiral Prince Abhakara Kiartiwongse, revered as the father of the Royal Thai Navy, and draws a steady stream of Thai visitors bearing offerings. Nearby, the decommissioned HTMS Chumphon is displayed on land. For views, drive up to Khao Matsee Viewpoint at sunrise to look across bays and islands. Offshore, Mu Ko Chumphon National Park protects dozens of islands with coral reefs, reached on boat trips from local piers. Some islands are protected for edible-nest swiftlets and cannot be landed on, so trips focus on snorkelling around them.

Food & coffee

Chumphon is a proper local food town. The night market in the centre is the place for southern curries, grilled seafood, noodle soups and sweets, and beach restaurants at Thung Wua Laen serve squid, crab and fish at prices well below the islands. The province is one of Thailand's main growers of robusta coffee, so look for local roasts in town cafes. Do not leave without trying the small, sweet kluai leb mue nang bananas, a regional speciality sold at roadside stalls throughout the province.

When to go

Chumphon follows the Gulf weather pattern rather than the Andaman one. The driest, calmest period is roughly February to August, and even during the Andaman monsoon Gulf crossings to Koh Tao usually run. The wettest months are October to December, when the northeast monsoon can bring heavy rain, choppy seas and occasional ferry cancellations. Thai long weekends and school holidays fill the beach resorts, so book ahead at those times. Weekdays outside holidays are wonderfully quiet, with whole stretches of sand to yourself.

Where to stay in Chumphon?

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Recommended: 1–2 nights

1-2 nights to break the journey south, relax on Thung Wua Laen beach and catch an early ferry to Koh Tao.

Nearby

Koh TaoGulf of Thailand

Koh PhanganGulf of Thailand

Koh SamuiGulf of Thailand

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