
The cradle of Thailand: a serene historical park with graceful Buddha statues among lotus ponds.
Waarom Sukhothai? The cradle of Thailand: a serene historical park with graceful Buddha statues among lotus ponds.
Sukhothai means 'dawn of happiness', and it was here in the 13th century that the first recognisably Thai kingdom flowered - its script, its art, its graceful walking Buddhas. The result is Thailand's most serene historical park: parkland studded with weathered chedis and elegant seated Buddhas reflected in lotus ponds.
One or two nights covers it comfortably, and it slots perfectly into the overland journey between Bangkok and Chiang Mai.
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Note there are two Sukhothais: the New Town (where the buses and most budget stays are) and the Old Town / Historical Park about 12km west, where the ruins are. A frequent songthaew shuttles between them for around 30 baht. Buses connect from Bangkok (6-7 hours) and Chiang Mai (5-6 hours); there is also a small airport (Bangkok Airways) a short drive out for those short on time.
If you want to cycle out to the ruins at dawn or dusk, stay in the Old Town, where a cluster of charming guesthouses and small boutique resorts sit at the park gates. The New Town has cheaper rooms and more restaurants but means a shuttle ride each way. Either works for a short visit.
The Historical Park is flat, green and made for cycling - rent a bike (about 30-50 baht) at the entrance and take it slowly. The central zone holds the essentials: Wat Mahathat with its lotus-bud towers, and Wat Si Chum, whose enormous seated Buddha peers out through a slot in the wall (bring a wide lens). The outer zones are quieter still. Go early morning or late afternoon, both for the light and to dodge the midday heat. If you happen to be here in November, Loi Krathong - the festival of floating lights, said to have begun here - is magical among the ruins.
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1-2 nights to explore the Historical Park by bike - the ideal stop between Bangkok and Chiang Mai.
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