
A lush, unhurried island of clear turquoise bays, jungle waterfalls and stilted fishing villages, with no nightlife to speak of.
Why Koh Kood? A lush, unhurried island of clear turquoise bays, jungle waterfalls and stilted fishing villages, with no nightlife to speak of.
Koh Kood (also spelled Koh Kut) is the far-flung island at the eastern edge of the Gulf, close to Cambodia and still wonderfully undeveloped. Thick rainforest covers the interior, rivers run down to the coast, and the west-side bays have some of the clearest turquoise water in Thailand. There are no big towns, no party scene and few crowds - just resorts tucked into the trees and a handful of fishing villages.
It is ideal for couples, honeymooners and anyone craving peace. Two to four nights lets you settle in, swim beneath the waterfalls and properly switch off.
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Most visitors take a bus or minivan from Bangkok to Trat (about 5-6 hours) or fly with Bangkok Airways to Trat Airport in about an hour. From Laem Sok pier, high-speed boats and catamarans reach Koh Kood in roughly 1-1.5 hours, usually docking at Ao Salad or a west-coast pier, and many resorts arrange transfers. In high season, island-hopping speedboats also link Koh Kood with Koh Chang and Koh Mak. There is little public transport on the island, so rent a scooter or arrange taxis through your resort - roads are hilly and quiet.
Almost all resorts line the west coast. Klong Chao is the most convenient base, with a river mouth, several places to eat and easy access to the waterfall. Ao Tapao is long and palm-fringed with lovely sunsets, and neighbouring Ao Noi is small and sheltered. Further south, Ao Bang Bao and Ao Phrao feel secluded and are home to some of the island's smartest boutique resorts. Choose Klong Chao for a little choice, the south for total seclusion. Budget bungalows exist, but Koh Kood leans towards mid-range and luxury stays, so book early for December to February.
The island's signature sight is Klong Chao Waterfall, a short walk from the road, with a deep green pool for swimming; you can also kayak there along the jungle-lined Klong Chao canal. The quieter Huang Nam Kheo waterfall lies inland. On the east coast, Ao Yai is a traditional village of stilted houses joined by wooden walkways, and Ao Salad is the working fishing port, with simple seafood restaurants over the water. Nearby, ancient Makka trees tower over the forest.
Koh Kood is best from November to May, when the sea is calm and boats run frequently. During the south-west monsoon, roughly June to October, heavy rain and rough seas cut boat schedules, some resorts close and the island becomes very quiet, though the waterfalls are at their fullest. There are only a few ATMs and small shops, so bring some cash. Mobile signal and wifi are fine at most resorts, but do not expect a pharmacy or supermarket on every corner.
Most people eat at their resort, but it is worth heading out at least once. Around Klong Chao a small cluster of family-run restaurants serves Thai curries, grilled fish and fruit shakes, while the stilted restaurants at Ao Salad and Ao Yai are the places for fresh crab, squid and prawns straight from the boats. Evenings are deliberately mellow: a sunset drink on Ao Tapao, dinner by lantern light and then stars and silence. There are no bars to speak of, which is exactly why people come. Bring a torch for the dark roads and walk carefully after rain.
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All hotels in Koh Kood →2-4 nights to switch off on the beaches, kayak up a jungle river and swim beneath the waterfalls.
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